Day 14 – Te Anau

Today is our Kayak adventure on Lake Wanaka. The activity Diana has been most looking forward to and what started the whole idea of a trip to New Zealand. It’s also New Year’s Eve.

Up early, breakfast and ready for collection at 8:45am by reception. We’ve parked the camper in the camp site staff car park as we’re supposed to check out this morning. It’s a beautiful day for it, the sun is shining and it’s mid 20’s.

The chap from Paddle Wanaka picked us up and drove us the short distance down to the water front for our briefing and to get kitted out. There were 6 other people on the tour, all in 2 person sea kayaks and two tour guides Abby and Alex.

Abby talked is through all of the kit and what we’d be doing today. The tour started from the beach and we’d paddle along the shoreline until with a few different options on the route depending on the weather as we progressed further into the lake.



We got changed and put on our skirts and spray jackets and found a paddle each and headed over to the line of kayaks by the waters edge. Alex came with me and Bella teamed up with Diana. We ran through fitting our skirts and what to do if we capsize, having a dry run of pulling off the skirts. Once everyone in the group was sorted we had a push into the water and off we went.

Diana and I have both been kayaking quite a few times before but never with a rudder so we practiced steering and travelling in a straight line, which was harder than it sounds with the waves being whipped up by the wind.


Abby took us along the the shore line and through the marina keeping in the sheltered parts as much as possible while we got used to paddling and steering.

We continued paddling (Alex mostly pretended to paddle) along the shore of the lake while Abby and Alex told us all about the lake, wildlife and town. After about 45 mins of paddling in relatively calm water we rounded a corner into the wind and faced rougher water. For the most part it was still relatively easy going, just more effort due to the wind and the occasional big wave which felt a bit like a roller coaster.


The scenery along the route was amazing and we loved lake Wanaka with its 360° views of stunning mountains and beautiful clear (drinkable) water, it’s like paradise.

We persevered for another 45 mins and just when we started it flag we could see the beach where we were to land with the promise of muffins and coffee once we got there.


We paddled up to the beach, remembering to pull up our rudders and then had a helping hand from Alex to pull the kayak onto the beach so we could get out and take a welcome refreshment break.

Once everyone had rested we were done with kayaking and a speed boat arrived and took us the short distance to Ruby Island so that we could explore and have a swim. On arriving at the island one of our group jumped from the boat and swam into the shore which the kids were really impressed with. We alighted at the pier and took a brief stroll around the island before Alex wanted to get back to the group and to take a swim. We changed and jumped into the cool deep water off the jetty. The island is on a shelf and the bottom drops away swiftly so we were jumping into deep water but easily getting out from a shallow beach. After hesitating over the first jump the kids loved it and spent the next 30 minutes finding different ways to jump in with Abby encouraging them.

The speed boat turned up 15 minute late, not that we’re were complaining, it’s not every day you get to swim in such an ideal of location, and took us back to the beach where we started. Bella and another girl from our group jumped in off the boat and swam into the beach, everyone else waited until the boat reached shore and paddled through the water.

We all thoroughly enjoyed the experience, the perfect end to the year.

We loved Wanaka so much, it’s like a ski reason in summer, (which is pretty much what it is), we talked about staying another night but it the campsite was fully booked and we had plans in Te Anau so we decided to keep going – we will be back.

Abby drove us back to the camp site and we collected the camper, emptying the tanks and securing everything for a long drive. We then went back into town and parked in a side street while we went to find some lunch and visit the supermarket.

Lunch was at a relaxed cafe on the street bordering the lake. I had a Salmon Poke Bowl, which was Salmon sashimi, brown rice, seaweed salad and coleslaw. It was delicious. The kids went for their staple fish and chips and scrambled eggs on toast and Diana had seafood chowder, also delicious.

Onward to the supermarket which it being New Year’s Eve and with a music festival not far from town was heaving. We stocked up on supplies for the next few days (at least all that we could carry) and walked back to the camper. By this point it was after 3pm and we really needed to get moving!

We set a course for Te Anau and left town promising to return.


The road headed up into the mountains and we passed several ski resorts along the way. We climbed for quite some time, the van complaining occasionally and we engaged the “hill” button a few times for extra power. The view from the top of the pass was breathtaking and we stopped for a quick photo opportunity before attempting the decent.

I thought the odd hair pin bend we’d experienced previously had been a bit hairy but this was something else. A proper alpine road with hair pin after hair pin after hair pin all rather steep! Thankfully the road was warm and dry with no traffic in front of us – I’d not like to try it in the camper in winter!

The rest of the drive went smoothly and we pressed on arriving at our camp site in Te Anau just after 7pm. After we’d checked in we found our spot and tried to park the camper, with no luck. We tried 3 different angles but we just couldn’t fit without blocking the road – we had pre registered the length of the vehicle beforehand so we were expecting a space that would work for us. I headed back to reception and the chap reassigned us another bigger space (the last one) – he’s hoping whoever turns up next is in a smaller van.

Once parked up we had a quick appero and opened a bottle of bubbles while I fired up the bbq and got cooking. We were right next to the play ground so the children were off even before we’d come to a stand still.

After an alfresco dinner we tidying up while the kids were back at the play ground and then watched Dodgeball (for the 3rd time) while we waited for the new year.

The camp site was heaving and the party in full swing when we arrived. It seems the locals, especially the teenagers, like to go camping over the New Years break. The party seemed to peak pretty early, or perhaps they all went into ‘town’, and by the time we got to 12am it was mostly a few fireworks and a few shouts of happy New Years from the dark. The children stayed awake to welcome in the new year, just!

A long day and an amazing end to the year and we still have a week to go. Happy New Year from New Zealand!

Distance travelled today: 226km

Grand total: 2075km

Day 13 – Wanaka

7am wake up call ready for our fishing trip on Lake Wanaka. A quick breakfast outside on the picnic bench before jumping on the bikes and heading to the marina.

Alex had a couple of falls on his bike as he wasn’t used to cycling down hill and on dirt tracks. He soldiered on and got the hang of it and we arrived at the marina 20 mins early.

We locked our bikes to a signpost and said hello to our fishing guide for the day, Davy. Davy’s boat and truck looked very smart and colour coordinated and he was a bit of a character but good fun.

We boarded the boat and he told us all about the history of the lake and his business. We got comfortable while we waited for one more person to turn up which he did just before we were scheduled to leave.

Once we were set and the kids had been offered life jackets we set off at quite a pace. Davy was clearly proud of his boat and had spared no expense and he wanted to show it off.

We headed off down the lake at speed, buffeted by the waves while we all hung on for a good 20 mins or so. Davy knew a good calm spot for fishing that he wanted to take us too just off the main lake, sheltered by the surrounding hills.

We arrived at the spot which was sheltered as promised and Davy switched over the outboard motors so that the smaller one was in use for manoeuvring and then set up the lines. The fish were pretty deep according to his sonar so he used large weights to sink the lines to the right depth.

After about 15 minutes we had our first bite. Peter, the other person on the trip, and and experienced fisherman reeled it in. The second came quickly afterwards and the kids took turns to hold the fish and were really excited by the first catch.

Now that we’d secured lunch Davy reset the lines and broke out the tea and coffee and banana and chocolate muffins that his wife had made early this morning.

The boat circled around the same area and we consistently caught fish as we passed over the same spot each time. There was an underwater ledge and it seemed the fish liked to hang out at that spot. We took turns reeling them in a Bella caught a big brown trout which she was really proud of. Alex’s first attempt got away and his first catch was an old rainbow trout which wasn’t in good condition so we put it back – which Alex wasn’t very pleased about!

Davy fires up the bbq and we cooked one of the rainbow trout w’ed caught in tin foil with lemon. It was really delicious and we all enjoyed the experience.

After about 1.5 hours it was time to head back so we slowly pointed in the right direction. At this point Alex had only caught the one we’d put back so we were all hoping we’d reel in one final catch before we headed back. As luck would have it we hooked two right at the last minute and Alex bagged his first proper catch. I reeled in the second but we decided to put it back as we already had more than we could eat.

All in all we’d caught 6, eaten 1, put 2 back and had 2 brown trout and 1 rainbow trout to take home. Not bad for 3 hours.

We said our goodbyes to Davy and Peter, picked up our bikes and cycled the short distance into town to find some more substantial lunch. Almost the first cafe we came to looked nice so we stopped and found a table outside. The lunch was great and the kids thought it was epical, probably because they were hungry!

After lunch we dropped into the supermarket for lemon and salt and pepper and wine to cook our fish and cycled back to the camp site. The kids did really well on the journey back but we all struggled on the final hill back to the campsite.

Once we’d put the bikes away and the fish in the fridge we changed into our swimming gear and walked the short way down to the lake for a swim. The sun had gone in by this point so we only stayed for a quick dip before heading back to camp.

Appero under cover in the bbq area while we browsed the local property magazine followed by a dinner of Bella’s brown trout on the bbq. The kids made friends with some of the locals camping here for the new year celebrations and played beer pong with them. (Not drinking the beer!)

The trout was sublime and we rounded the night off with a movie in the camper hiding from the rain before bed.

Tomorrow we are kayaking on lake Wanaka and then moving on to Te Anu for the new year.

Distance traveled today: 0km

Grand total: 1848km

Day 12 – Wanaka

We woke to the patter of rain on the camper roof and had a quick breakfast. We decided to abandon our plans to cycle the mountain bike trail to the glacier car park thanks to the weather and prepared for a walk to see the Fox Glacier instead.

A 5 minute drive via the most expensive garage so far, took us to the glacier car park which I’d scouted by mountain bike yesterday. The rain had kept people away so there was plenty of parking. It was our first opportunity to try out our wet weather gear and we set off prepared for the rain to continue, which it did.

It’s only 1.5 km from the car park to the glacier viewing point but took us 45mins due to the steepness of the terrain and a number of stream crossings – all good fun although I did have to bribe Alex with a toffee as he was about to give up 50m from the top.

The glacier itself has receded significantly over the last 100 years but was still impressive if you knew what you were looking at. The main face was covered in scree and looked quite dull and camouflaged as part of the mountain with a large cave at the base where the melt water ran off. The valley we walked through was a dramatic demonstration of the power of a glacier and I enjoyed explaining to the kids how the valley was formed.

After viewing the glacier it was a much quicker decent, it was still raining and we were keen to get dry. The streams we’d passed over on the way up were visibly larger due to the rain fall only a few minutes later.

We arrived back at the camper and stripped off our wet clothing. Handy having a mobile place to change and dry off! Once dry we set a course for Wanaka via the Aspiring National Park.

We’d really left civilisation behind at Fox Glacier and didn’t see any significant structures until over an hour later when we stopped at Bruce’s Bay for coffee and ice cream from a mobile cafe. The Boyzenberry ice cream was delicious.

Onward towards Wanaka. The rainforest in the hills here was something else. A layer of cloud circled the base of each hill making the whole part of this journey spectacular.

We finally break through to an outpost of civilisation at Haast and stop for lunch at the roadside cafe – the only option in 100km. I sampled the whitebait salad which is an NZ speciality. The salad consisted of a side of coleslaw with chips but the whitebait was tasty! Thankfully it also stopped raining.

Continuing on we drove around Lake Wanaka and then over The Neck and around Lake Hawea. The scenery is truly epic. Or epical as the kids like to say. The light is so vibrant the whole view is just mind blowing. The camera, even in panoramic mode really can’t capture the epic scale and beauty of these scenes. Beautiful, amazing and stunning. Wow.

We drove past the bottom of lake Hawea and into the town of Wanaka which is heaving with people in stark contrast to everywhere we’ve been today. We struggle to find a parking spot next to the central park and Bella and I walk to the supermarket for supplies. It being the only large supermarket in Wanaka it’s also heaving with people and there are queues down the isles for the checkouts. We quickly grab some supplies and head back to the camper.

A short 5 min drive to our campsite for the night which is slightly less commercial than last nights Top 10 but just as well equipped. We laid out our still wet clothes from the morning to dry in the sun and settled in for the usual appero and bbq while the kids played on the playground.

We’re here for two nights and tomorrow we’re going on a fishing trip on lake Wanaka and are looking forward to freshly bbq’d fish off the back of the boat – assuming we catch something.

Distance travelled today: 272km

Grand total: 1849km

Day 11 – Fox Glacier

7am start waking up to the sound of the ocean. A quick breakfast and then the kids went to play on the beach while we got ready.

Set off by 9am and drove for an hour stopping at the tree top walk for coffee. It was super expensive, but really fun. We walked around the structure enjoying the view and tried to avoid looking down. The tower was exciting and nerve racking as it swayed when people walked up and down the stairs. Wonderful views of the surrounding area and rainforest.

Ice cream when we got back to the cafe and then we got going for the second part of the journey down to Fox’s glacier.

We’re moving from the ocean towards the mountains and the roads are getting twisty with switchbacks and corner after corner. We usually end up with a queue of traffic behind us and pull in at the end of each section to let people pass.

Lunch was sandwiches at a rest stop by a lake not far from the Franz Glacier. The township was really busy and looked very much like a tourist trap. We tried to get Diesel and failed (the garage had run out) and then kept on moving.

Another 20km along the road and we entered the Fox Glacier township. We passed through to the Lake Matheson car park and got out for our walk of the day – a loop of Lake Matheson to see if we could spot the reflection of the mountains in the lake. It was a little bit windy so the surface of the lake wasn’t in a reflecting state but we did have a great view of the mountains.

After the 5km circular route we stopped in the cafe for drinks and cake. Bella had a fantastic rocky road which took some eating.

Onward to the “Top 10” campsite which was just a few minutes drive down the road. Once we’d got the camper setup we had appero and started cooking the bbq.

The Top 10 site is pretty crowded and commercial, quite a contrast to the secluded spots we’ve been staying so far but there’s a big playground for the kids and the facilities are great.

After dinner I cycle the mountain bike track to Fox Glacier to scout it out for tomorrow while everyone else enjoys a movie in the camper.

The route starts off through the rain forest and ends right next to the glacier run off, a really spectacular view. Really looking forward to walking to the glacier face tomorrow.

Distance traveled today: 215km

Grand total: 1577km

Day 10 – Greymouth

6 am alarm and a run along the shore of Lake Rotoiti. Breakfast in the van and set off for Greymouth by 9am.

It was too cold to take a dip in the lake before we left, quite chilly without the sun.

Twisty roads with stunning views around most of the corners. The sun came out and it turned into a lovely day. The road followed a number of rivers with crystal clear water, growing bigger as we got closer to the ocean.

We pulled in a couple of times to take photos but the camera doesn’t do the view justice.

We stopped for fuel, coffee and pies at Muriston about 60km into the journey. We’ve been wanting to try the local pies which are a speciality of the region and these were good. Diana has chicken and bacon and I had Truckers which was beef, chicken, cheese, egg and bacon and was delicious.

Back on the road and none stop to the Ocean road free camping site in Greymouth. The site had great views of the ocean but was essentially a big tarmac car park and didn’t feel particularly special. We drove 5 minutes north along the beach road to where our walk for the day started and found a much nicer camping spot right at the start of the walking path.

Our walk for the day was 11km along the coastal path to Point Elizabeth through sub tropical vegetation. The sun was shining but we were sheltered by the trees as we walked up and down the hills. The signs warned it was a penguin zone but we didn’t manage to see any. A really pleasant walk which broke into a run just for fun near the end.

We arrived back at the camper around 5pm and rearranged the parking to get the best view. We then settled into appero on the beach and bbq chicken for dinner listening to the ocean. Some paragliders landed nearby to provide the after dinner entertainment and the area emptied out quickly with just one other camper left by 8pm. An idyllic spot.

The kids loved playing on the stoney beach, building dens, collecting special stones and making guns from the driftwood.

Tomorrow we’re driving down to the Fox Glacier area and are hoping to fit in a walk and a bike ride.

Distance travelled today: 221km

Grand total: 1362km

Day 9 – Nelson National Park

A late start and no longer raining!

We had a quick breakfast in the van and then m the kids played on the trampoline while we got organised, refreshed the camper tanks and then got going by 11am.

We dropped into the Countdown supermarket in Blenheim to pick up supplies, as there won’t be any big towns for a while.

Onward with a 1 hour drive to Nelson national Park through Marlborough Wine Country. Just like on the photos with neat rows of vines in fields all along the road.

We arrived at the West Bay camp site on the shore of Lake Rotoiti and had a late lunch of cheese and coleslaw sandwiches sitting on the beach. (The coleslaw here is awesome, dressing, no mayo – delicious)

We found a good spot to camp and booked online, it turned out we had to collect our ticket from the visitors centre so we jumped back in the van and went to pick it up. 15 mins later we were back in our camping spot with ticket on display and ready to start walking.

The walking route we’d planned for the day was a 12km circular route around the closest mountain with good views of the lake. We made a start but the first part was on the road and not very pleasant with cars going past so we turned around and headed back to the path by the lake.

We walked for 10km in the end around the edge of the lake and back. Really beautiful clear water and a lovely well signed track through the shady forest.

There were lots of animal traps along the way, we assumed for some kind of pest. The kids were fascinated and checked each one for a catch.

We arrived back at the camper around 5:30pm and took a quick dip in the lake. The watch was quite cold and refreshing but the rocks made it difficult to walk into the water.

Afterwards we had appero at the camp site and bbq for dinner all the while trying to avoid the small biting sand flies.

We eventually gave up and ate dinner inside the camper followed by a game of life before bed.

We resolved to wake up earlier tomorrow ready for another day of walking.

Distance travelled today: 117km

Grand total: 1141km

Day 8 – Marlborough

Christmas Day and a 4am start, not due to the children but to catch the ferry to the South Island.

The kids opened their presents from Craig and Caitlin (Father Christmas delivered to our home in London) and they were really pleased. Alex got some Lego and Bella, The Game Of Life board game. Cold pizza for early breakfast and then we set off.

We drove the 10mins to the ferry terminal and queue to check in. 3rd in line so plenty of time for the 6:30am.

Bella entered and won the colouring competition on board the ferry, the prize was 10 NZD to spend on board. She bought a lovely kiwi necklace.

The crossing was 3.5 hours sovthe kids also had the chance to watch a movie at the on board theatre – the grinch which the kids of course loved.

Diana and I read and watched the rain.

Once off the ferry we stopped at a camper dump site and refreshed the tanks and then on to a rest stop to have showers and get ready for lunch.

12pm lunch at Hanz Hergog winery. Really nice. Ravioli, pork belly and trifle. Chicken and chips for the kids. 4 wines paired with the meal. No Christmas cracker but all delicious and a pleasant atmosphere.

Afterwards it was a 10min drive back the way we’d came to the camp site. The office was closed but map of where we were staying was on display. We parked up, Alex finished his Lego and we played UNO while it continued to rain as it had been all day!

We watched Dodgeball as a treat – the kids have been wanting to watch it as it came with the camper van. A fairly typical Christmas Day afternoon, just in a cozy camper.

Moved onto Its a game of life afterwards which was really good fun and the kids got into it.

Afterwards the kids played outside in the rain while I read and Diana had a nap.

The girl who lives at the camp site showed us the eels that live in the river, massive. They really enjoyed their meal of left over chicken.

Still raining! All in all a relaxing Christmas afternoon followed by an early night as we were all tired from the early start.

Tomorrow we move into the countryside and start hiking.

Distance travelled today: 50km

Grand total: 1024km

Mince pies consumed: 0